They say we’re headed for a depression. Now, I know that’s ridiculous, because I don’t see anyone wearing barrels and the TSA sent all the hobos to Guantanamo. If we can’t see them, they aren’t there, right? But just to humor you, I’m going to talk about a cheap and easy trick to add instant class to your liquor cabinet in these gloomy days: Maraschino liqueur.

If you’ve never had it before, the most important aspect in trying maraschino is dispelling any preconceived notions about the cherry jars for topping sundaes or garnishing Shirley Temples. Maraschino is made from cherries, but it doesn’t particularly taste like them — though it is slightly-to-moderately sweet and flavored with European Marasca cherries, it bears almost no resemblance to the bright red garnish we love to hate. There are basically two brands in existence: The cheap, readily available Stock, and the more expensive Luxardo (not stocked by Northside Wine & Spirits, but likely available as a special order.)

In terms of pure quality, Luxardo wins hands-down. Whereas Stock is a one-note liquor, Luxardo is complex and doesn’t have nearly the cloying sweetness that initially put me off maraschino. If you’re trying it for the first time, however, the price difference (about $15 versus $27) is a serious consideration. In any case, a bottle of maraschino is likely to last you a full academic year or more. This is not only because no one will want to drink maraschino on its own, but also because the best-known maraschino cocktail — the Aviation — uses less than an ounce of it.

Though the Aviation’s history is vague, the earliest record of the cocktail appears circa 1916; it is likely that the burgeoning gin industry, kick-started by Prohibition, contributed greatly to the drink’s success. The Aviation’s popularity continued into the Depression and it is still one of today’s most complex and satisfying drinks.

Aviation (fellow mixologist Gary Regan’s recipe)

2 oz gin

1/2 oz maraschino liqueur

Shake the ingredients with ice and strain into a cocktail glass.

Your work, however, is only half-done: The Aviation’s not complete without a flamed lemon twist. I’ve described in greater detail how to make these in previous columns, but basically, cut a half-inch wide slice from a squeezed lemon half. Use a paring knife to scrape off as much lemon pith as possible, then use your thumb and forefinger to grip the slice firmly. Next, light a match and squeeze the twist over the flame onto the drink. Drop into cocktail and serve.

For those of you looking for something extra, the original Aviation was made with an additional splash of Crème Yvette, a violet-flavored liqueur that hasn’t been made for roughly half a century. For now, you can substitute a crème de violette like Rothman & Winters. If you wait a little longer, though, you might be able to­ try the real thing: St. Germain’s, purveyor of weird classic liqueurs, has already come out with lab samples. RLD